Award-winning chefs and school mates Rahul Pereira and Ralph Prazeres recently reunited for a special lunch in Goa, blending Goan flavours with global inspirations resulting in a memorable culinary experience
SHERYL GONSALVES
It all started when two people attended the same school in Goa which led to a friendship blossoming, not knowing where life would take them. Fast forward some years later, these two friends – Rahul Pereira and Ralph Prazeres – have become successful chefs who dazzle people around the world with their culinary prowess. Recently, they were also among the winners of the Food Superstars 2024. While Pereira was among the winners of the India’s Top 30 Chefs’ awards, Prazeres was awarded the Young Chef 2024.
“We are thrilled to have won. It’s so nice to be recognised. And it’s also getting to be part of a larger community of chefs and meeting so many new chefs and exchanging ideas,” says Pereira. Prazeres meanwhile adds that they never expected to win and felt that this shows there is potential for young chefs within the country itself where they can get recognition and feel empowered.
In celebration, the two chefs recently planned a collaboration lunch in Goa ‘Zoya X FoodSuperstars Event’ for the first time.
The lunch was held at Praça Prazeres which is tucked away in a corner in the Latin Quarters of Panaji. The event began with cocktails, appetizers, and engaging conversations, setting the tone for the meal. All the cocktails featured Zoya gin as the base, enhanced with intriguing additions such as jamun purée, elderflower, homemade spices, Goan chili, Tajín salt, and more, creating unique combinations.
Their menu showcased Goan ingredients and flavours they genuinely love. “We didn›t really go technical. We just wanted soul food that is relatable, easy, and light for a hot Goan afternoon,” says Pereira.
The first item was Cold Pea Soup which contained sour cream, chorico oil, and candied bacon, with a vegetarian version incorporating pickled peas. The Chonak Crudo, which featured Goa’s famous fish, came with jalapenos, pickled beets, and kismoor which was turned into a furikake and dusted on top.
Next came the Bait Prawns and Chorico Gnocchi which has an interesting story behind it. Thanks to Culinary Culture (which organises Food Superstars), they had the opportunity last year to talk to chef Massimo Bottura. With the thought running around in their minds that this chef is always surrounded by Michelin star restaurants, they decided to cook home styled food and set up a family-style table for him and his team from Osteria Francescana, the night before they cooked at the Leela Palace in New Delhi. This private dinner was hosted by Vir and Raaj Sanghvi. “One of the items was a feijoada (a Goan dish with pork, chorizo and kidney beans) and we ended up overcooking the kidney beans,” shares Pereira. He adds that chef Bottura took a bite, recognised the dish, and started praising them for the innovative twist of turning the kidney beans into gnocchi, when in reality they had just messed up. However, this culinary mishap inspired them to create something new.
Another highlight on their menu for the day was the ‘Kalchi Kodi’ (yesterday’s curry). “The curry is made and left to rest overnight. It gets congealed and thick. The coconut milk comes together and the flavour is more rounded and it’s paired with the turmeric mashed potato, pan seared chonak, and an onion and fennel salad,” explains Pereira.
One of the standouts of the vegetarian menu was the Burrata and Tambdi Bhaji Ravioli. “We don›t eat much vegetables in Goa and with the vegetables we do eat, we throw prawns in it. But if you go to Goan parties, you’ll get tambdi bhaji,” shares Pereira. For their dish, there is a tambdi bhaji (red amaranth) ragout in the centre, and mushroom and tambdi bhaji stuffed into the ravioli. Another noteworthy dish was Root Vegetable Caldeen, topped with feta and rucola for an extra kick. The Beetroot Carpaccio also received praise.
The dessert course was held in an unexpected location – Pereira’s house itself! There was a table set with beautiful azulejos style plates containing the classic Goan Bebinca and Prazeres’ iconic Pastel de Nata, along with coffee.
With their different culinary backgrounds – Prazeres with his expertise in European cuisine and Pereira’s in Indian kitchens – the duo brings unique twists to their creations and they are planning to do some collaborations internationally this year in places like Thailand, Hongkong, and Singapore. They have already signed up for Bengaluru, Mumbai, and Delhi. A couple of them may be held in Goa as well.
The Goan food scene
“The food scene in Goa has evolved to the extent that the state can be considered as the food capital of the country,” says Pereira. “There’s great dining options, and you have different pockets in Panaji, Assagao, and Siolim. You have a bunch of great bars and restaurants and an ever-growing F&B scene.”
However, Prazeres feels that there is a downside to this. “I think right now there are too many restaurants and it just dilutes the market. We don’t have a full ecosystem to support the kind of restaurants that are opening up right now. There’s pressure on the system for electricity, water, etc, which becomes a messy problem.” He adds that the authorities could perhaps start giving Goans preference and streamline at least some Goan youth opening up restaurants. “That way the biggest players are not in the market here. But then again, it is very difficult to take a call with that,” he says.
Pereira meanwhile adds that he wishes more chefs opened restaurants than just businessmen. “I think we should start talking more about Goan food. All the Goan food places are very family-oriented but not very professionally-run restaurants and I think Goa deserves very good Goan restaurants,” he says.“That is something both of us feel very deeply about and maybe someday we’ll run one together.”
