A magnanimous religious congregation; this Mahakumbh in
Prayagraj is happening after 144 years. An ace photographer recounts her experience of capturing this spiritual gathering
SALONEE KAMAT JAIN
According to mythology, in the Satya Yug, at the time of the Samudra-Manthan, a ‘kumbh’ (pot) containing ‘amrit’ (nectar of immortality) emerged. Both the Devas and Rakshasas wanted to consume it and fought for it. During this fight, drops of this ‘amrit’ spilt at four places – Prayagraj, Ujjain, Nashik, and Haridwar. It is believed that every 12 years, the planets and celestial bodies align in the same way as the day of the Samudra Manthan. Whoever, takes a dip in the holy river during this period of the Kumbh, is resolved of his bad deeds and accrues ‘punya’ (spiritual merit).
As a photographer whose vision is to showcase India’s culture to the world, when I heard that the Maha Kumbh was happening in Prayagraj this year, I decided to go for it. I was there for three days including the first Shahi Snaan. And for me, it was an overwhelming and yet a very humbling experience, surrounded by millions of people from different walks of life connected by belief and faith. My photographs capture not just the Nagas but also women staying on footpaths, devotees taking the holy dip at Triveni Sangam, people taking blessings of the Nagas, local services such as barbers for the
devotees, etc.
Here are some interesting things
I learned about the Maha Kumbh:
Peshwai
When the swamis, yogis, nagas, and other spiritual leaders/members of various ‘akharas’/sects enter the Kumbh, there is a lot of celebration. This is called a Peshwai. From decorated floats, to elephants and camels, there is a whole convoy with dance, slogans, music, martial arts, acrobat performances by sadhus, etc. An amazing sight to witness; it happens about three to four days before the start of the Kumbh.
Akharas
‘Akharas’ are ancient organisations of ascetics and form an important part of the Kumbh. The word ‘akhara’ is derived from the word ‘akhand’, meaning indivisible or eternal, signifying unity and resilience. Adi Shankaracharya, established these akharas to unite ascetics and safeguard the Sanatan Dharma. The most famous ‘akharas’ are the ones of the Naga Sadhus. These protectors of dharma, after years of penance, come down from the hills and mountains, only during the Kumbh. Thousands of devotees visit them for their blessings. The most popular ‘akharas’ are Juna Akhara, Niranjani Akhara, Mahanirvani Akhara, Anand Akhara, Avahana Akhara, and Kinnar Akhara. The Kinnar Akhara is of the transgenders.
Other than the ‘akharas’, there are camps of several other religious communities. Visiting devotees are free to step into any of them and attend a spiritual discourse, eat a sumptuous ‘saatvik’ meal, interact with the swamis, chant bhajans, etc.
Triveni Sangam
This is the term for the union of the holy rivers- Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati at Prayagraj. By taking a helicopter ride, or using a drone, one can see the merging of greenish blue water (of the Yamuna) with the brownish water (of the Ganga). And it is at this Triveni Sangam that one has to take a dip during the Kumbh to wash away one’s sins and purify the soul. Boats can be hired, that take you to the centre of the Sangam. The water is hardly knee level. There are make-shift arrangements for a change of clothes too.
Temples and other places
to visit
The Nagvasuki Temple, Prayagraj, is an entire temple dedicated for the snake Vasuki who helped in the Samudra-Manthan. It is a must visit. Other temples that you can visit are Bade Hanumanji, Shri Adi Shankar Vimana Mandapam, Shri Beni Madhav, and Akshay Vat. You can also visit the Digital Mahakumbh Experiential Centre in Sector 3, the laser show at Kali Ghat and the Ganga Aarti at Sangam Ghat.
From travelling in a mini-truck and staying in a tent with basic amenities, to surviving on sugarcane juice and chana-kurmura bhel, the Kumbh taught me how I can survive and be happy with minimal things in life.
(The writer is an international
award winning photographer from Goa,
based out of Mumbai)
