A century begins with a feast

As the first Onam of the new Malayalam century dawns today, Malayalees in Goa are not only keeping a tradition alive but also sharing it with their neighbours, friends, and fellow Goans, with a hearty spread- the Onam Sadhya

ADITHI SHARMA | NT BUZZ

For the many Malayalees living in Goa, Onam is both a link to their homeland and a chance to share its traditions.

In fact, professor B.P. Sarath Chandran, originally from Trivandrum and now living in Dona Paula, calls it “a great feeling for all Malayali families to celebrate Onam in a joyous manner wherever they stay globally”.

Sharing more about the festivities, Jitto Thomas, a Navelim resident from Pala, Kottayam explains how the day before Onam, they come together for ‘thiruvathira’ (traditional dance) and ‘athapookalam’ (flower decoration rangoli). “And on the day of the festival ‘vadam vali’ (tug of war) games and the Onam Sadhya is held,” he says.

For the festivities, Ernakulam native T P Simon, residing in Dona Paula, states that ladies wear the typical Kasav sarees bordered with golden threads and men in their famous Kasav Mundu (Dhoti).

Even for those married into Goan families, the festival remains vital. Nizla Samad Fernandes from Kumarakom, Kottayam, now living in Parra, says “While I deeply miss my village, our courtyard, and especially the fresh flowers for the ‘pookalam’, Onam is truly a feeling that goes beyond place. Whether in Kerala or Goa, we welcome the new year with warmth, joy, and togetherness.”

Central to these celebrations is the Sadhya, the grand vegetarian feast served on a banana leaf. Traditionally featuring 24 to 32 items, the meal balances sweet, sour, spicy and bitter flavours, with a variety of textures and colours. “All the dishes are reminiscent of childhood memories,” says Chandran. “Aviyal, sambar, thoran, and payasam are the most essential items in the Sadhya.” Professor P.K. Sudarshan from Thrissur highlights his favourites, “Avial is the most popular dish among Onam dishes. Inchanpuli (ginger tamarind curry) is also very unique. Erupuli based on curd is another special dish. Palada Pradhaman (payasam) is inevitable.”

For many, the Sadhya is a collective effort. “All family members have duties,” says Thomas. “Someone will cut vegetables, some prepare ‘pookalam’, the parents will prepare dishes — it’s a unity of happiness.”

Fernandes describes her own home ritual. “Preparing for Onam Sadhya is always a task shared between me and my husband. Though our Sadhya may not be elaborate or elegant, we always ensure that authenticity and taste remain in everything we make.”

While some ingredients are readily available, others still travel from Kerala. Adapting recipes, however, is a matter of personal choice. While some believe in staying completely traditional, others like Fernandes embrace a small blend. “Since Sadhya mainly consists of vegetarian dishes, I never miss adding saamaare— a Goan dish usually made during the Ganesh festival. People are always eager to get the recipe,” she says.

Keeping younger generations involved is also crucial to sustaining the tradition. “For Onam there is no age limit — young children to grandparents have their role,” says Thomas. “For youth, Onam games and for the older people, leading Sadhya preparations are important.” Chandran adds, “Cultural programmes are a major component of Onam celebrations in Goa. Younger generations participate in dance, music, and mega ‘pookkalam’ competitions with a lot of interest.” Fernandes involves children in her housing society “I invite the youth and kids over for lunch, requesting them to dress as traditionally as possible. Together, we prepare the ‘pookalam’, and later, we enjoy our Sadhya sitting on the ground and eating on banana leaves.”

Besides home-based celebrations, Malyalee associations in Goa also come together to celebrate this feast. “We have many Kerala organisations in almost every city in Goa, which spearhead organising the Onam celebrations involving mainly the youth. Almost all Malayalees take part in it along with their Goan friends and families,” says Simon. The Goan community, he adds, also join in
the celebrations.

For professional chefs, preparing a Sadhya at scale is both a challenge and a joy. “Preparing a Sadhya is the epitome of celebration of fresh produce and harvest season,” says chef Karan Malavalan, owner of Chakos Restaurant in Panaji. “Each element on the leaf has its own role to play in this culinary and sensory experience. The challenge definitely comes into play with the timing of it all. Some items need more time than others, so it’s almost like an
orchestra.”

This year, his team has scaled up service to a larger venue at the Panjim Convention Centre. And some dishes, he says, are perennial favourites with Goan diners. “Inji puli with its punch of sweet-sour ginger and tamarind combo is always a hit. Avial is comforting and coconut-rich. And the payasam has been so popular that this time we decided to do three types: moong dal, roasted vermicelli, and the classic milk and rice flakes version.”

On authenticity, he is firm, “Certain ingredients like Kudampuli and Papadam still have to come from Kerala to maintain that integrity. Instead of wanting adaptations, Goans are excited to taste the Sadhya exactly as it is in Kerala.” For him personally, “it’s about carrying a piece of Kerala, propagating the feeling of harmony.”

For brand chef at Hosa, Siolim, Harish Rao, timing, balance and freshness, are everything when it comes to the Onam Sadhya. “The challenge is making sure everything arrives perfect on the leaf.”

And the favourites among Goan diners are telling, “Rasam, avial, olan, sambar, thoran, erissery are always loved. But the real star? The payasams— especially Palada Pradhaman. That sweet finish is what everyone waits for,” he says. “Cooking the Sadhya here feels like celebrating unity, joy and tradition with everyone at the same table.”