Gifts beneath the soil

Samrudhdi Kerkar

When prehistoric humans were nomadic, they survived by gathering food and hunting. They collected fruits, leaves, flowers, roots and shoots. Through careful observation of nature, they discovered that nourishment lay hidden beneath the soil. Gradually, they began cultivating tubers, humble, earthy foods that became vital sources of sustenance. Early communities recognised their nutritional and medicinal value and prioritised growing different species. These gifts of the soil were not merely food, but survival, strength and sustenance.

Tubers once formed an integral part of Goa’s culinary heritage. During Chaturthi, aromatic khatkhate enriched with assorted tubers was a celebratory staple. Kaate Kanaga (Dioscorea esculenta) and Karande (Dioscorea bulbifera) were cherished snacks, eaten between long hours of work in the fields. Even in my childhood home, these earthy flavours were familiar. Maadyeche kyal, prepared from Colocasia esculenta by my grandmother for breakfast, tasted heavenly with warm nachnichi bhakri.

Today, however, few people even recognise these yams. What was once common in our kitchens now feels unfamiliar. This year brought a refreshing change. An inspiring initiative by Suryakant Shankar Gaonkar, born and raised in Bhuipal of Sattari, along with Datta Shambhu Naik from Priol in Ponda, sought to restore this fading tuber heritage. They organised a ‘Tuber Festival’ in Bhuipal village.

Like many parts of Sattari, Bhuipal has long been known for its tuber crops. The word “Bhui” itself hints at the village’s deep bond with the earth. Nestled near the industrial estates of Honda and Pissurle, it was once predominantly agricultural, surrounded by the forested hills of the Western Ghats. Before the establishment of Automobile Corporation of Goa Limited, associated with the bus body unit of Tata Motors, villagers practised slash and burn cultivation locally known as kumeri.

The festival showcased diverse tuber species and offered visitors traditional recipes rich with memory and flavour. Khatkhate, kyal, dal, madyechi talaleli kaapa, and vegetable cutlets made from elephant foot yam received an enthusiastic response. Professor of Botany from Kanakavali Dr Balkrishna Gawade presented a slideshow highlighting the diversity, nutrition and culinary value of these crops. Dioscorea pentaphylla (dukkar kand), Dioscorea bulbifera (karande), Dioscorea alata (chini), Colocasia esculenta (alu) and other lesser known varieties were displayed. Traditionally, tribal and farming communities cultivated these during the monsoon.

The dishes were widely appreciated by visitors and experts alike. The experience reminded me of my visit to Madhya Pradesh, where stalls sold a popular snack called garadu. Crowds of all ages gathered to enjoy it. When I tasted it, I realised it was purple yam, the same chini we grow in Goa, transformed into something wonderfully flavourful. I recreated it at home and it was truly delicious.

If we begin incorporating these earthy tubers into our daily diets in creative ways, we can revive not just forgotten recipes but an entire heritage. The festival in Bhuipal was organised with exactly this intention.

Food that grows in the womb of the earth carries a certain depth. It is not merely sustenance, but grounding. It is raw, honest and deeply rooted. In a rapidly changing world, these humble tubers help us stay connected to our soil, our traditions and our identity.